Floor-Length Hems: Getting Length Right Before Alterations
By Mariah Johnson · Updated
A floor-length blue and black gown is measured to graze the floor at a specific heel height, and that heel height changes the correct hem length more than your own height alone does.
Whether it’s described as a black and blue gown or a blue and black gown, floor-length sizing depends on the shoe as much as the dress.
At a glance
- Flat shoes: order petite length if you're between sizes
- Low to mid heels: standard length usually needs little to no alteration
- High heels: order regular or tall length, and wait for the shoes before hemming
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Heel Height by Heel Height
| # | Heel height | Hem advice |
|---|---|---|
| 1 | Flat or no heel | The hem should just graze the floor. If you're between standard and petite sizing, petite is usually the safer order for a flat shoe. |
| 2 | Low heel (1–2 in) | Standard length typically works, but check the garment's measured length against your height plus roughly 1 to 2 inches. |
| 3 | Mid heel (2–3 in) | The height most floor-length product photos are shot on. Standard sizing usually needs no alteration at this heel range. |
| 4 | High heel (3.5 in and up) | Order regular or tall length rather than shortening anything before you've tried the actual shoes on with the dress. |
A half-inch of heel height matters more at floor length than it does at any shorter hem, since the dress has that much further to travel before it either drags on the ground or lifts above the ankle. When in doubt, order slightly longer and hem down rather than the reverse.
FAQ
Should I buy the dress or the shoes first?
Buy the dress first if the shade matters more than the exact heel height, since finding the right blue and black dress usually takes longer than finding shoes. But hold off on any hemming until the shoes are in hand, heel height changes the hem length far more than most people expect.
Can I hem a floor-length dress myself, or does it need a tailor?
A tailor is worth it for a floor-length gown, especially one with a placement pattern like a colour-block or ombre gradient near the hem (see the placement patterns guide). A hem taken up unevenly on a floor-length dress is far more visible than the same mistake on a shorter length.
How much time should I leave for alterations?
Two to three weeks minimum for a straightforward hem, longer if the dress needs the hem taken up around a train or a patterned placement. Order the dress and the shoes early enough that alterations aren't happening the week of the event.
What if I don't know my heel height yet?
Order the dress in your standard length and wait to hem until you've settled on shoes. A floor-length dress with a slightly-too-long hem can be pinned up for a first fitting; a dress hemmed too short before the shoes are chosen usually can't be let back down.
Does fabric weight affect how much a hem drags?
Yes, a heavier fabric like a structured satin holds its shape and drags less than a very light, flowing chiffon, which can catch underfoot more easily at floor length. If the venue involves a lot of walking or dancing, a slightly heavier fabric is more forgiving of a hem that's an inch longer than ideal.
Should I bring a backup pair of flats for later in the event?
Many brides and guests do, since a floor-length hem measured for heels can drag slightly once flats are swapped in later in the evening.
Related guides
Mariah Johnson
Editor, Blue and Black Dress
I maintain the shade index and the placement pattern guides on this site, verifying each hex value against real garment photography as I work through the list, and I keep the pairing tables current.
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